Art Deco Jewelry: A Short Guide

Era: 1920–1939

Key Characteristics

  • Geometric Shapes: Triangles, chevrons, zigzags, circles, stepped forms.
  • Symmetry & Precision: Balanced, machine-influenced design.
  • Bold Contrast: Strong color combinations and sharp edges.
  • Modernity & Glamour: Reflects industrial progress, luxury, and streamlined aesthetics.

Precious Metals Commonly Used

  • Platinum: The signature metal of the era; strong enough for fine, airy filigree.
  • White Gold: Introduced in the 1910s, but became significantly more popular in jewelry during the 1930s as a platinum substitute.
  • Yellow Gold: Less common but still used for specific stylized pieces.
  • Occasional Silver: Used more for costume jewelry versions.

Gemstones & Materials

  • Diamonds: Frequently used in pavé, calibré cuts, and geometric settings.
  • Sapphires, Rubies, Emeralds: Often used as accent stones, usually in French calibré cuts.
  • Onyx: Black onyx provided bold, high-contrast elements.
  • Coral: Especially salmon coral, used for color blocking.
  • Lapis Lazuli & Jade: Frequent in Eastern- and Egyptian-influenced designs.
  • Rock Crystal: Carved or frosted for modernist, translucent effects.
  • Pearls: Used particularly in long sautoir necklaces.

Signature Design Motifs

  • Egyptian Revival: Scarabs, lotus forms, winged shapes (post-1922 King Tut discovery).
  • Asian Influence: Pagoda shapes, fans, and lacquer-like color palettes.
  • Machine Aesthetic: Streamlined, aerodynamic, and architectural motifs.
  • Sunbursts & Radiant Patterns: Representing energy and modernity.

Common Jewelry Types

  • Long Sautoirs: Pearl or gemstone strands with tassels.
  • Bracelets: Wide, rigid, geometric panels or diamond platinum line bracelets.
  • Brooches & Clips: Double dress clips that can be worn separately or together.
  • Rings: Geometric step settings, large central stones, diamond surrounds.
  • Watch Jewelry: Decorative cocktail watches with geometric links.

What to Look For (Collecting Tips)

  • Crisp geometric craftsmanship and calibré-cut stones.
  • High-quality platinum work with fine milgrain.
  • Symmetry and architectural influence.
  • Authentic hallmarks and period-appropriate construction.

 

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