Art Deco Jewelry: A Short Guide
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Era: 1920–1939
Key Characteristics
- Geometric Shapes: Triangles, chevrons, zigzags, circles, stepped forms.
- Symmetry & Precision: Balanced, machine-influenced design.
- Bold Contrast: Strong color combinations and sharp edges.
- Modernity & Glamour: Reflects industrial progress, luxury, and streamlined aesthetics.
Precious Metals Commonly Used
- Platinum: The signature metal of the era; strong enough for fine, airy filigree.
- White Gold: Introduced in the 1910s, but became significantly more popular in jewelry during the 1930s as a platinum substitute.
- Yellow Gold: Less common but still used for specific stylized pieces.
- Occasional Silver: Used more for costume jewelry versions.
Gemstones & Materials
- Diamonds: Frequently used in pavé, calibré cuts, and geometric settings.
- Sapphires, Rubies, Emeralds: Often used as accent stones, usually in French calibré cuts.
- Onyx: Black onyx provided bold, high-contrast elements.
- Coral: Especially salmon coral, used for color blocking.
- Lapis Lazuli & Jade: Frequent in Eastern- and Egyptian-influenced designs.
- Rock Crystal: Carved or frosted for modernist, translucent effects.
- Pearls: Used particularly in long sautoir necklaces.
Signature Design Motifs
- Egyptian Revival: Scarabs, lotus forms, winged shapes (post-1922 King Tut discovery).
- Asian Influence: Pagoda shapes, fans, and lacquer-like color palettes.
- Machine Aesthetic: Streamlined, aerodynamic, and architectural motifs.
- Sunbursts & Radiant Patterns: Representing energy and modernity.
Common Jewelry Types
- Long Sautoirs: Pearl or gemstone strands with tassels.
- Bracelets: Wide, rigid, geometric panels or diamond platinum line bracelets.
- Brooches & Clips: Double dress clips that can be worn separately or together.
- Rings: Geometric step settings, large central stones, diamond surrounds.
- Watch Jewelry: Decorative cocktail watches with geometric links.
What to Look For (Collecting Tips)
- Crisp geometric craftsmanship and calibré-cut stones.
- High-quality platinum work with fine milgrain.
- Symmetry and architectural influence.
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Authentic hallmarks and period-appropriate construction.