Victorian Era Jewelry: A Short Guide

Era: 1837–1901 (Reign of Queen Victoria) Sub‑Periods: Early (Romantic), Mid (Grand), Late (Aesthetic)

Key Characteristics by Period

Early Victorian / Romantic (1837–1860)

• Sentimental motifs: hearts, bows, hands, anchors, snakes (symbol of eternal love).
• Naturalistic designs: flowers, leaves, acorns, birds.
• Delicate workmanship with light, wearable styles.

Mid Victorian / Grand (1860–1885)

• Mourning jewelry popular after Prince Albert’s death (1861).
• Heavy, bold designs with darker materials.
• Classical, archaeological, and Renaissance revival influences.

Late Victorian / Aesthetic (1885–1901)

• Lighter, more whimsical, artistic designs.
• Influences from Japonisme and early Art Nouveau.
• More machine-made pieces; greater variety and accessibility.

Precious Metals Commonly Used

• Yellow Gold: Dominant throughout the Victorian era.
• Rose Gold: Frequently used, especially in Romantic period pieces.
• Silver: Common in Mid-Victorian jewelry and gemstone settings.
• Gold Alloys: 9k, 12k, 15k, and 18k gold seen (depending on region and period).
• Pinchbeck: A gold substitute (copper + zinc) used early on.

Gemstones & Materials

• Diamonds: Often in old mine cuts; more accessible later in the era.
• Garnets: Especially Bohemian garnet clusters.
• Turquoise: Very common in Romantic and Aesthetic pieces.
• Opal: Highly fashionable in Late Victorian jewelry.
• Pearls: Used across all periods, especially in sentimental pieces.
• Coral: Popular in Early Victorian designs.
• Jet: Signature mourning material, especially Whitby jet.
• Onyx & Vulcanite: Other dark materials for mourning jewelry.
• Enamel: Taille d’épargne (black enamel lines) and champlevé styles.
• Hairwork: Braided human hair used in sentimental and mourning jewelry.

Signature Design Motifs

• Romantic: Serpents, hearts, lover’s knots, hands, flowers.
• Grand: Etruscan revival granulation, Egyptian motifs, bold geometric shapes.
• Aesthetic: Nature, birds, insects, Japanese-inspired motifs, artistic asymmetry.

Common Jewelry Types

• Brooches & Lockets: Central to all Victorian periods.
• Rings: Memorial rings, cluster rings, gypsy-set rings.
• Bracelets: Paired bangles, hinged cuffs, elaborate goldwork.
• Necklaces: Snake chains, cameo necklaces, seed-pearl chokers.
• Earrings: Drop earrings, torpedo forms, later lighter designs.
• Mourning Jewelry: Jet, onyx, hairwork, black enamel.

What to Look For (Collecting Tips)

• Check for original cuts (old mine, rose cut, cabochon).
• Victorian clasps: tube hinges, C-clasps, early safety clasps.
• Hand engraving, repoussé, granulation, or cannetille work.
• Wear consistent with age; signs of conversion (e.g., brooch → pendant).
• Authentic Victorian hallmarks and regional gold standards.